The photos below are from member Mark Bondy’s dash. The purpose of these photos is to provide assembly photos of the dash for use in restoration and understanding what goes where.

*Note Right Hand Drive and metric speedo above.

Hi guys — I wanted to follow up on this, as I just completed the dash rework a few days ago.

1) Jute padding with plastic garbage bag-like backing is not under the “dash”, but under the top portion of the passenger-side firewall.

—- I ended up buying some carpet underlay/padding from home depot. It’s totally foam, as well as a roll of silver/reflective “bubble wrap” insulation. I cut the silver stuff to fit everywhere under the dash area and on the floor pans. I used 3M spray adhesive to attach it all. I know it’s not original, but you can’t see the stuff unless you look under the dash. So far so good regarding how things have quieted down. It will be interesting to see if the heat is less in the passenger compartment. I used the foam insulation in varous places where the carpet underlay (attached to the carpeting) didn’t cover.

2) Circular “ring” foam for attaching the vents to the bellows/heater box plumbing.

—- I bought the thinnest foam I could find at Hobby Lobby. I think it was at least 1″ thick!! But it compressed down nicely. I used this for the heater core to box outer seal, and the “bellows/vent doors” to cowl seals – the circular ones. I cut them all by hand. The foam was a light green, and compressed down nicely.

3) Rubber gasket that attaches behind the steering column and has a grommet, as part of this pad, for the clutch rod.

—- I used my original one, along with the repop “foam” part. I tried to patch up my original seal as good as possible.

4) Paint for dash (black) – it’s a metallic black color.

—- Research led me to part# D1A32586 – Charcoal black poly. My local paint store mixed a quart of laquer for me (PPG Duracryl DDL). It’s a perfect match to my original dash and steering column. Mix was 1:1 with laquer thinner.

5) Heater core grommets — there were two of them that pressed in from the passenger compartment side.

—- Spoke with green sales company, and after a couple days of research (they were looking for quite a few things for me), the Ford microfishe recommended the user “improvise” on these grommets. How about that!!!??? Funny stuff. So, there was no real part# for these. And I guess when I think about it, most cars have a variety of things sealing the heater core-through-the-firewall holes. So, I used my crappy originals and just put the heater hoses as close to the firewall as possible.

6) Seam sealer

—- I bought a can of 3M sealer. I used it where I’d scraped all my original stuff out of the seams/corners from my floor pans.

Couple of other items:

a) Repro firewall insulation pad (npd? mustangs unlimited?) was crap. Some of the holes for the ventilation fan were missing or wrong, mounting areas were wrong. I should’ve compared it to my original and taken a photo, but didn’t. I had to cut these to fit. Pain in the A.

2) Reworked the speedo/tach cluster and center gauges — pulled them apart, cleaned them, masked them off and reshot them (inside and out) with a gloss white. And polished the lenses with 3M Plastic Cleaner (by hand). They look brand new!!!

3) Yes, went to Mr. Gs in Fort Worth, Texas (30 minutes from me) and “traded” in my dash bezel, glove box door, glove box bezel for reworked ones. Not cheap — Just under $400. But, I felt the quality was really nice, and the pieces were better than my originals. Installed in the car, now that it’s all redone (with my fresh rim blow restoration — dave prine!), these make the interior look like a million bucks. I think it was worth it.

I would’ve done the center gauge bezel, but they didn’t have a “replacement” for me. And for them to do mine, it would probably be a few months. So, I’m on the hunt for another center guage panel that I can send to them to redo, while I keep my original in the car. I did spend a bunch of time reworking my original one, so it looks much better.

4) A few months ago I posted here about a “seal” that presses up into the steering column — just above the rag joint. My original white/plastic piece, or seal, was kind of falling apart. Green sales company helped me source part# D1AZ-7347-A from a place in Dallas. So, I was able to pick that one up too! It’s called Parts International (partsinternational.com). It was $12.

Think that’s it. In a nutshell, after stripping everything out of the interior, including the rear seat bottom and side panels, I treated any surface rust from the leaky heater core (first, hit it all with a drill/wire brush) with metal conditioner. Then cleaned with water, and then applied POR-15 over the surface rust areas. I then used red epoxy primer everywhere. (had the entire interior of the car taped off, and the outside covered. One mistake I made was not plugging the cowl vents in the engine compartment. Had some dusting here from the red oxide primer. I then sprayed body color on the floor pans, like it was originally.

I also wire brushed and reshot every part — bracing for pedals, pedal and clutch assembly, brakets — everything. Mostly used Eastwoods Detail Gray and Spray Gray, plus the Krylon gloss black. I tried to keep the colors as they were originally. I cleaned the wiring harness (out of the car), and scruubbed down the dash and steering column (both out of the car) with a gray scotchbrite. Then put it all back together. No real issues. The toughest part was the crappy firewall insulation pad.

Took a bunch of “disassembly/before” pictures, but no “reassembly/after” photos. But the results were totally worth the effort. Hope this helps! Chris

This option is extremely rare and is only found on *very* early built 71 Mustangs – perhaps only from August 1970. The wood grain appliqué is applied to a special formed metal piece which is glued to the console. Soon after production started, the wood grain option was deleted and replaced with a black camera case finish, which is what is found on most 71 Mustang consoles around the clock. Note that any color console still had black around the clock, up to the ash tray. For 73, the black only went up to and around the shifter, not the ash tray. Black camera case (grain) is also the finish used on the left and right dash of a Sport Interior.

Cars before 6/16/71 used a center catch lever on the backs of the front seats (top left photo), and after that date an outer side lever was used (top right photo).

In the bulletin below, note how the Automatic Seat Back Release was not included in the Convenience Group before Jan. 71. This accounts for this feature’s deletion on many 71 Invoices.

The Rear Defrost Control Switch and dash light are shown above. The parking brake warning light is shown below.

This is the console clock delete plate used on the Mach 1 without a tachometer. The other plate that was used, (probably on the Grande’,) said “MUSTANG”. The photos at center (rear of blockoff plate) and right show the “Mach 1” blockoff plates installed.

This is the blockoff plate used when a car was ordered with the Radio Delete option. An installed view is shown below;

There were two different dome lamps and two different lenses used in 1971, but they both looked the same on the outside (as shown at top left). Before 6/1/71, the dome light lens at left (part # C6OZ-13783-A) was used after 6-1-71, the D1AZ-137831-B version was used. The newer design is a little wider and the clip design won’t allow them to interchange. When buying a new lens, you need to get the correct one so that it will fit.

Below is the new Dome Light Housing used after 6/1/71. Note that it used the a tube style bulb instead of a regular bulb and was used in the pre 6-1-71 version.

Brake Pads

There is a difference between the NOS replacement rubber disc brake pad and the original 71 pad disc. The lettering on the replacement (left) is a little larger. The original disc (right) has a smaller lettered “Disc Brake”.

These 4 clips are for the door glass and quarter windows on Coupes and Fastbacks. Two are part number D1ZZ-6522204-A and two are part number D1ZZ-6522244-A. Photo at right shows clip locations on typical front Mustang window.

Ford Order Form

The 71 Ford Mustang order form above shows an overview of the various 71 Mustang options, including Interior.

Three different steering wheels were available for the 71 Mustang;

Fold down shown left and center. Non fold down at right for comparison.